
The Czech resorts have missed out on the package tour scene, which is slightly surprising as the better resorts are a match for some of the Romanian and Bulgarian resorts included in many mainstream tour operator brochures. You’re unlikely to want to organise an independent trip to any of the resorts, unless you’re thinking of visiting the country for another reason. A holiday in Prague combined with a few days skiing or boarding in one of the nearer resorts would make a novel holiday experience take in the sights and then head for the slopes for a couple of days’ change of scene. More experienced skiers will enjoy comparing and contrasting with better-known international destinations, while novices will get a chance to try something new at bargain rates.
An opportunity to visit vibrant Prague renowned for its elegant architecture and historic landmarks
- Primitive facilities
- Basic food
- Limited slopes with few challenges
- Lack of English speaking tuition can be a problem
Most visitors to the resorts are Czechs or Germans looking for something a bit cheaper than your average Austrian resort. And the resorts are indeed very cheap, with a day’s lift pass somewhere in the region of ?6 to ?7, and a drink or snack in the local restaurants 50p, while a main course is about ?3. Equipment hire is also cheap, but don’t expect the latest gear.
There are a few different mountain regions in the Czech Republic, many of which have winter sports resorts. These are predominantly small, with only about 10 to 15km of downhill pistes, though some have reasonably extensive cross-country trails. However, it is the resorts within easy driving from Prague that are of most interest. It is these resorts in the Krkonose mountain range, in the north of the country, only about two hours’ drive from Prague that are the most frequently visited.
The mountains are low by Alpine standards 1200m being the highest accessible point. But low temperatures are not so dependent on altitude this far from the moderating influence of the Atlantic, and the area is relatively snowsure. In a good year the conditions are reasonable from November until April. There is little for experts in these resorts, with the slopes being predominantly intermediate to easy. The mountain restaurants are uniformly poor little more than sheds selling a limited range of takeaway food and drink but they are cheap. Accommodation tends to be quite basic but good value, with a couple of more upmarket hotels charging higher prices though nothing to break the bank. Standards are not as low as many Western Europeans might imagine. English is not spoken in many restaurants or shops and few instructors speak it in the schools the best bet is to go to the local tourist office for information.
Snowboarding has taken off with young Czechs, but not many resorts have proper terrain parks or facilities.
The best resort is Spindleruv Mlyn, with nine lifts and 25km of pistes, of varying difficulties, spread out over two unconnected sectors (a reporter comments that ‘it’s like a real ski resort’). Most of the accommodation is in excellent-value private rooms for letting or the Arnika, an upmarket hotel on the main road into the village.
Pec Pod Snezkou is made up of a collection of hamlets spread along the valley road which leads up to a car park at the base of the main lifts. 11 drag-lifts serve the 25km of mainly gentle slopes. The Bull bar at the base is lively for apres-ski.
Harrachov is the closest to Prague, with enough terrain to justify a day-trip if the mood takes you.